I was often asked, “When is the proper time to prune?”
And I’d respond with: “Prune what?”
That is a loaded question and takes some research or plant knowledge if you are not familiar with pruning and trimming practices. Pruning, in relation to flowering and growing habits, is crucial in many circumstances, hence the timing can be of utmost importance and should be advised by a knowledgeable person in order to gain full advantage of the species individuality.
Shrubs and bushes vary in when they bloom and when they need to be trimmed so as to not destroy the budding and development of the blossom, so understanding the species is very important. Spring flowering varieties normally develop from the previous year and shouldn’t be pruned until after that spring flush of blossoms.
Some, however, will bloom twice — a full flush in the spring and a lighter showing later in the year, and those shouldn’t be pruned until late fall.
Summer and fall bloomers should be pruned in the winter or late fall during the dormancy period.
Pruning is a horticultural practice that alters the form and growth of the shrub or tree. Many problems can be averted with proper pruning and could be considered preventative maintenance especially when young and in their formative years. Remove branches that rub together and try to maintain a balanced and alternating limb structure. Avoid topping trees as it destroys their natural shape and can create the promotion of diseases and by all means remove dead and decaying branches. After all, appearance in your landscape is the intended purpose and it’s natural form is best.
Shearing shrubs to create even and tight formations is aesthetically pleasing but should not be taken to extremes. In other words, don’t try to make something out of the plant that is not it’s intended purpose. For example, a globe yew (Browni) should be maintained as a rounded globe, a pyramidal yew (Capitata) should be cone shaped, a columnar yew (Hicksii) should be maintained in a cylindrical shape, etc.
Don’t try to take a spreading yew (Densiformis) and shear it into a rounded form. It should be allowed to arch and show off the natural form and trim it only to keep it in bounds.
When it comes to trimming larger mature trees, it’s best to leave this heavy job to professional and qualified tree trimmers, especially when utility lines will interfere. If it’s a “do-it-yourself” job, try removing larger branches in at least three cuts to avoid tearing the bark. Start with an initial undercut half to three-quarters through the branch and about a foot and a half from the main trunk, then make the second cut on top, an inch farther out until the limb falls. Finish by undercutting just outside the fleshy bark of the main trunk and finally from the top finish the cut to make a clean break.
The dormant season is best for most pruning but care should be taken on spring flowering species of shrubs.
Here are just a few that shouldn’t be pruned until after spring blooming: Redbud, flowering quince, dogwood, cherry, crabapple, smoketree, weigela, forsythia, privet and spirea.
Prune them immediately after blossoming. Keep pruning tools such as anvil and by-pass shears, lopping shears, and hedge shears sharp and clean to avoid spreading disease from infected plants. Bow saws, draw saws and pole saws should be part of your arsenal when tackling these necessary jobs.
